Albania
Tirana, Albanian Riviera, Himarë, Ksamil, Gjirokastër, Balkans Trail

Albania Travel Guide

Albania completely surprised us as one of the most underrated destinations in Europe. From the pristine beaches of the Albanian Riviera to the epic Balkans hiking trail through remote mountains, Albania offers incredible value, stunning landscapes, and some of the warmest, most welcoming people we've ever encountered.

Top Highlights in Albania

Completing the challenging Balkans hiking trail from Plav to Valbona

Swimming at secret beaches like Fililek and Gjipe accessible only by hiking

Exploring the UNESCO town of Gjirokastër with its Ottoman architecture

Boat tour along the coast seeing pirate beaches and countless bunkers

Experiencing authentic Albanian hospitality in mountain guesthouses

Discovering Himarë's crystal-clear waters and relaxed coastal vibe

Essential Travel Tips for Albania

Albanian Lek currency - 110 lek = 1 euro, Union Bank lowest fee at 500 lek

Ksamil is umbrella city with no public beaches - disappointing

Himarë much better than Ksamil - authentic and beautiful water

Balkans trail: Theth to Valbona pass is busy, book guesthouses ahead

Tirana free walking tour excellent - Californian Bailey ex-teacher guide

Learn basics: 'Poh' = yes, 'Jo' = no, 'Mir' = good, 'Gezur' = cheers

Suggested Albania Itineraries

Balkans Hiking Trail Epic

5 Days

Day 1: Plav to Vusanje

  • Morning: Start hiking at 10am through purple fields
  • Day: Steep climb up, people picking mini blueberries, lunch overlooking Balkan peaks
  • Evening: Beers at chalet, shelter made of plastic & dried leaves, dinner by fire

Day 2: Vusanje to Theth (Favorite Day)

  • Morning: Great views from campsite, Blue Eye swimming spot
  • Day: Cross Albania border without realizing, rural hut with coffee and cheese
  • Evening: Theth guesthouse Dreni with buffet dinner and Aussies doing Valbona pass

Day 3: Theth to Valbona Pass

  • Morning: Valbona pass - busy with people
  • Day: Steep dirt downhill with lots of slips and trips
  • Evening: Bar skipping 5km exposed creek walk, lovely guesthouse in Valbona

Day 4: Valbona to Doberdol

  • Morning: Wait for bus to Ceremi, got open air truck - amazing rough road
  • Day: Big uphill, chill walk through pine forest, blueberry cake at bar
  • Evening: So much rain! Set up tents in intermission, best guesthouse with roast veg

Day 5: Doberdol to Plav

  • Morning: Hike to Tre Kufinjtë (three border point Albania/Kosovo/Montenegro)
  • Day: Ridgeline walk, Hridsko Jezero Lake for cold swim and roast veg sandwich
  • Evening: Bus back to Plav, swim in lake, 1L wines and campfire

Albanian Riviera Coast

3 Days

Day 1: Himarë Arrival

  • Morning: Bus from Tirana (1200 lek each, 4h journey)
  • Afternoon: Beach for sunset with beers, lovely chill swim
  • Evening: To Steki Sti Gonia - moussaka and grilled meat, good wine

Day 2: Castle & Beaches

  • Morning: Big walk to castle then down to Livadi beach
  • Afternoon: Lunch at Zoros - AMAZING stuffed eggplant with Middle Eastern flavors
  • Evening: Brothers gyros for 300 lek - thank god staying in Himarë not Livadi

Day 3: Secret Beach & Boat Tour

  • Morning: Walk to secret beach Fililek
  • Afternoon: Boat tour to Pirate Beach for 3h, saw aquarium, Kiko, Gripe, Jale
  • Evening: So many bunkers visible from coast, escaping sun as shade retreated

Tirana & Gjirokastër

3 Days

Day 1: Tirana Exploration

  • Morning: Coffee at Le Chateau (good & cheap!), money exchange
  • Afternoon: Tirana free walking tour - very interesting history
  • Evening: King Pils grill for qofte meatballs, sunset on the pyramid

Day 2: Bunker Art & Culture

  • Morning: Coffee and spinach pie at patisserie
  • Afternoon: Bunk Art 1 (preferred) and Bunk Art 2 (busy), bus 11 easy transport
  • Evening: Oda restaurant - lovely courtyard, good lamb and stuffed eggplant

Day 3: Gjirokastër & Blue Eye

  • Morning: Hire car from Altan (40 euro for auto)
  • Afternoon: Blue Eye - already a line, only 100 lek entrance
  • Evening: Gjirokastër UNESCO town exploration